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Hightlights Versus Slices

Ever wondered what type of coloring technique to ask for? Here I would like to try to explain the difference between two very commonly asked for highlighting techniques (with the help of Angie who has had both) :

Highlights – This is where small, even pieces of hair is woven out throughout the head and foil is used to wrap the chosen strands so that the color does not come into contact with the remaining hair. This is one of the most popular methods of color to use for people who want to add some variation and color tone to the hair. (Up to 3/4 colors can be added per time) It is one of the most natural types of coloring and is a good starting point for many who have not ever had color before. Depending on the colors chosen, the result can be so natural that the grow out is hardly visible.
Ideal for: people with fine hair, people who want a very natural look.

Slices – This technique is where slices of hair is picked up and wrapped in foil. The thickness of the slice depends upon the end result desired. This technique works great if a heavier ‘colored’ look is wanted, it can be used throughout the whole head or just in front areas. Because the pieces of hair colored is thicker, the grow out is harder to hide but certain positioning of the slices can help with this problem i.e. starting color beneath the parting.
Ideal for: People with thick hair, people with curly hair, and people who want a more definite colored look.

Thanks Angie, and Thanks to Lucky for doing the colors.
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Hair Facts

TRUE or FALSE:

Q: Can wearing ponytails break the hair?

TRUE!!

A: Yes, if the ponytail is pulled too tight, it can cause breakage to the hair, in two main areas:
1. If you pull the ponytails too tight for too long, it puts tension on the hairline at the front and over time can cause the hair to weaken and break around the front hairlines.
2. If the band used to tie around the hair is too tight, it can cause the tension on the same area over time to weaken and break the hair, try using softer bands and scrunchies to tie hair with.

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Brazilian Straightener by Lucky from Dekko

You’ve all heard about this new fabby treatment that’s available right? The Brazilian Straightener. Because of the technicality of it all I asked Lucky (top technician) from Dekko Salon to do the write up so you get an idea of what it is precisely:

Jules has been kindly nudging me to write about the Keratin Treatment, aka the Brazilian Straightener. So here is my share on information I have gathered and personal experience.

What Is It? The KT/BS is a demi-permanent keratin based relaxer that originated in Brazil over 10 years ago. Hence, the name. Demi-permanent means it doesn’t permanently change the hairs structure resulting in permanently straightened hair like the Japanese or Sodium Hydroxide based relaxers do. Nor does it work like an anti-curl semi permanent, which washes out completely and reverts back to it’s natural state,

So How Does It Work? The KT/BS surrounds natural hair bonds with conditioning keratin, which is then sealed into the hair with heat. It remains in the hair for approximately 4 months depending on how often the hair is washed. The more often the treatment is done, the straighter the hair gets and the texture is improved.

Who Would Benefit? Anyone who doesn’t love their natural texture. The KT/BS diminishes frizz. It will also straighten or minimalize curl depending on the amount of natural curl. It works on all hair types. Including highlighted, tinted, previously relaxed and bleached. Yes, bleached! The treatment is done, and in 24 hours completed at home with the provided shampoo and conditioner.

Who Would Not Benefit? Clients who are frequent swimmers or ocean dwellers. The chlorine and salt in the water will shorten the life of the treatment.

Is It Safe? The question arises from the use of masks during the treatment. The masks are used to minimalize the effects from the steam emitted when heat is applied to the treatment. One of the active ingredients in the KT/BS I use, Lasio, contains 0.02% cosmetic grade formalin. It is necessary to give the product longevity. Formalin is found in many cosmetic and household products such as: nail hardeners, shampoo and conditioners, medicines, carpets, vinyl, permanent press fabrics and many more. I nor my clients have never experienced any adverse reaction while giving this treatment.

Will post some before and after pics later on!

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Styling Natural Curly Hair

Asian hair has always been known to most people including myself, as the typical straight coarse texture, so I am so surprised at how many natural curly locks I have come across lately. I figured this was a good opportunity for me to talk about how this type of hair is best styled for great looking results.

1. From when the hair is wrapped in a towel after washing, do not rub vigorously with the towel as this will frizz the hair up, squeeze the hair rather than rub.


2. This is the time to comb your hair, (when it is very wet) as when the hair is dry no combs or brushes should go near the hair. (The reason why it is OK to comb when wet is becos the hair is wet enough to bounce back into its original curl without pulling out the wave too much.)

3. Apply a good leave in conditioner or styling cream, (see stylists notes) Start applying from the ends and then work on the roots last (this will ensure that not all the products land on the roots). Once the hair is covered with products, you may do one of 2 things:

a/ Lift and scrunch the hair up lightly and shape the hair as you would like to see it dry or if you want more definition in the curls………

b/ Take small sections from the hair underneath and work up the head, each small section is twisted to keep the ends more defined. Do not twist too tightly at the roots as it will spring the opposite direction ad loosen up too much.

4. Once the whole head is complete, gently lift and scrunch. Then either use a diffuser or leave to air dry naturally. (see stylists notes attached)
5. DO NOT touch or mess with the hair WHILE the hair is drying… Once dry you can move and fluff as much as you want but during the drying process it is important not to disturb the curls as this will shatter the curls BEFORE they have a chance to set, leaving the hair frizzy.

6. Once dry, either it fluff out (for a crazier look) or just lift and scrunch the hair throughout to give it more lift.


Thanks to Jamie for posing with her lovely locks!
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Stylists Notes on Styling Curly Hair

There is a difference in drying curly hair with and without a diffuser.

If the hair is diffused, the air flow from the hairdryer (even tho less than a normal dryer flow) gets into the hair and roots more, therefore lifting the hair away while it is drying, thus leaving the hair airier and curlier. The steady air low does not disturb the curls too much unless the air low is too strong or you have fine hair involved.

If the hair is air-dried without a diffuser, the water in the hair, weighs down the hair while it is drying, therefore unless you remember from time to time during the drying process to squeeze the hair up, the hair will dry flatter but still defined.

Some of my recommended products that I like for curly hair are:
Prive – Curl Activator (medium hold)
Davines – Defining Cream (soft and light feel)
Tigi – Curls Rock, Curl Amplifier (crisper harder hold)
Ojon Hair – Animated Styling Cream (mild and soft)

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Hair 8-ft Long

Here’s an interesting article I found in a UK newspaper (Mail Online)………

Quote –‘As every woman knows, a bad hair day can pretty much ruin your entire mood. But for Cheng Shiquin, they must be devastating. Shiquin owns a beauty parlour – but somehow manged to avoid a haircut for the last 16 years. She was pictured showing off her hair – which is 8 feet long – in south west China’s Chongqing municipality this week. It take 2 hours to wash her hair and another hour to comb it.’

 

‘Despite the extreme lengths Shiquin has gone to in order to achieve her long locks, she does not hold the record for the world’s longest hair. That title belongs to another Chinese woman – XieQiuping. Her hair is a mind-boggling 10 feet longer than Shiquin’s, measuring 18.5ft in 2004. She began growing it in 1973 at the age of 13.’

 

Here’s my very own measly 3.5 feet of hair in comparison to Shiquin ……



Read full article: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1166716/Pictured-The-woman-hair-EIGHT-FEET-long-despite-owning-beauty-parlour.html

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Hair Clippings

Ever wondered what we can do with all that cut hair that salons produce on a daily basis?

Well, one of the most environmentally friendly things that salons can do is to donate their hair clippings to a company called Matter Of Trust. They use the clippings to create mats (see pic below) that will then be used to soak up oil spills!!

 

Fab idea eh?

 

For more details visit http://www.matteroftrust.org/

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Hair Donations

Growing out your hair, for a good cause is becoming more and more favoured by many people. Donating your hair to make wigs for cancer victims as well as other medical conditions that causes hair loss is one of the most personally satisfying and rewarding things that you could do with your hair.

Afew weeks ago, Emily Wang came into our salon and did just that, She had been growing her hair out for the past year so that she could make a donation to an organisation called LOCKS OF LOVE http://www.locksoflove.com/

Emily with her long locks before she came in for the big chop

Now before you all go running out to make your donations, its a good idea to do your homework first as there are some rules to hair donating….

Most of the organisations require you to have between 8 – 12 inches of hair, with some charities, colored (tinted) hair is acceptable but no bleach, perms or highlighted hair.

Here’s Emily holding her 10inches of hair.

Some organisations will not even accept grey hair. The reason why grey, permed, highlighted and bleached hair is not accepted is because these charities try to make their wigs as realistic as possible and need the hair to absorb color evenly and consistently, when the hair has been processed or not processed at all (as in grey hair) the color consistency is not even enough to achieve this look. Chemically processed hair is also too porous to hold the dyes used in the process and leads to fading in the wigs.

Finished style!!

Some more hints for hair donations: Make sure you grow enough hair to cut it to your desired length as well as the 8 – 12 inches. If you don’t plan on having your finished result too short then please allow enough hair in between for bounce, and shaping of hair. You need to allow your stylists some lee-way to make sure your leftover hair is long enough to shape into your desired haircut.
With layered hair, the shortest layer also needs to be the required length otherwise it cannot be used.

Here are some some of the more popular charities:

Locks of Love – 10-12″ needed, color OK, no bleach
Wigs for Kids – 12″ needed, no color, perms, highlights or grey
Pantene Beautiful Lengths – 8″ needed, no color or bleach
Childhood Leukemia Foundation – 12″ needed, no color, no grey

Above are just guidelines for the different charities, please do some research for yourself before choosing the one that is right for you.

Meanwhile, Thanks to Emily for her donation as well as allowing me write about it for my blog!

 

Stylists Tips:
To cut the hair for hair donations, try not to tie your hair into one big ponytail at the back, this will usually result in cutting off too much at the back (leaving a hole that’s difficult to work from afterwards)and not enough from the front.
Of course, depending on the length you want to go to after the haircut, this will help you decide how to take the donated hair off.
If you want short hair all over as a finished result, you could tie small ponytails all around the head and cut them off.
If you want a graduated bob shape (where it sits up and in at the back) then one ponytail at the back is OK to do. (But still not the best method)

 

If you want longer chin length hair, then you could either tie around 4 or 5 low ponytails around the base of the hairline area Or you can hold and cut pieces off at a time without scrunching the hair together too much and then pass the hair onto someone who can hold them altogether with the roots in the same direction until you have cut it all off and then the hair can be tied together.
If the hair is layered, ponytails throughout the head is tied up and cut off.
With all methods, please do not tie or hold the hair too tightly as the hair will bounce and jump up with the tension.

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Becoming Blonde

 

They said it couldn’t be done.. going from jet black hair to blonde. Here’s Joni to show you how she did it with a little help from her colorist Jodi Ninomiya, 8 applications and a whole lot of patience!!

Starting with Jet Black hair….

to swampy colors….

Gone is the green, just a lovely shade of orange…

A lovely beige tone….

Finally… Blonde!!!!!

 

Just one more thing that is needed….. a ‘couldn’t care less’ attitude, because no matter how carefully its done, some of your hair WILL fall out, but hey who said beauty doesn’t come with some loss!!!

 

Stylists tips:

When considering bleaching your hair, remember the more red you have in your hair, the harder it will be to lift, and when hair has had black or brown tints applied, it has to be stripped first, so make sure the hair is strong enough to handle all the chemicals before you start. Even stripping of the hair first will not guarantee an even end result. Also if you don’t want a yellow/orangey tone to your hair, don’t forget to tone, toners are very important after bleaching to give you a more pleasing result, please consult your colorist before trying it, it will result in alot less heartache.