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Hair by Dove Palmer Part 1

Update – If slideshow does not start, please click on here to see hair..

Dove Palmer is Creative Director for Vidal Sassoon Advanced Academy in London, UK. He also ran the Masters Academy for them too and has made 3 DVD step by step videos as well helped in contributing at least 12 haircut pictures for the Academy Photo collection. I came across Dove’s work on Facebook and instantly LOVED the exquisite work done by him. Funnily enough Dove turned out to have the same mentor as I did back in the day. Stacey Broughton (also from Sassoons) has been his mentor since he went to work for Sassoon’s. I definitely spotted the Stacey traits in the haircuts.


I have so many different styles to show you that he has done over the years that I have decided to split them up into 3 slide shows so that we can make the most of showcasing his work. Dove’s specialty seems to be on Asian hair, whether its because he tours to the Far East to do seminars so much (and for up to 4months at a time) or maybe its because his wife has so many friends that needs to utilise his craft, I don’t know, but whatever it may be, I’m so happy to be able to show you his creative work on Asian hair. Here is part 1 of 3, I will show you the others at a later date so look out for more of his precision cutting : )

Thanks Dove for letting me share with my readers.
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Ombre Color….

The latest color technique Ombre is such a huge trend right now both in the US and the UK.

‘Ombre’ is an French word meaning ‘shaded’, it means colors graduating from light to dark, or from one color to another. It can refer to yarn dye or in printing.

In terms of hair color, the main idea is to go from darker roots to lighter ends, altho some go from lighter roots to darker ends, Colors can range from mainstream subtle to crazier colors. Personally I think this may have come about because people became too lazy or ‘skint’ to have their roots done as often as they usually do, so it became a trend when people like Drew Barrymore and Alexa Chung started sporting this look and ending up so hip with it, that everyone wanted to follow suit…

The original hip trendsetters..

Here’s some more examples of different Ombre coloring:

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Undercut Hair..

According to the Daily Mail Online in the UK, the demand for the ‘undercut’ is soaring!
It has been noted that an increasing number of women are ditching the longer feminine flowing locks in favor of a more cutting –edge look, salons in England are inundated with a high demand for the ‘undercut’ which involves cutting away a large section of hair while leaving the rest of it long, creating a funky edgier look. The look can vary from extremely short to longer and softer, the surrounding hair is usually ‘razored’ for a softer look.It seems quite afew celebrities are sporting the look and now lots of women are asking for the once considered punky style. Here we have model Alice Dellal, as well as Rhianna and pop star Cassie with their more extreme versions of the ‘undercut’.

View undercut

Personally I hope this catches on with the Hollywood crowd, it would be nice to see abit more ‘edge’ with the celebs over here, instead of the usual ‘glamour’ looks, which will then drift down to the women in the US, then people can look a little bit funkier.
Here’s our very own Jodi from Dekko Salon looking rather spiffing with her very own ‘undercut’ by Andria Falcon.
Cheers JoJoxxxx

To read the full article on Daily Mail….

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My Pick ~ Keith Carpenter

OK, so here’s my pick of the day…
My Pick 8bI love this although we all know its a catwalk/stage look, I mean if I went on Bart or Muni with my hair like this I’m sure I’d be getting quite a few stares as well as a few larfs, but nevertheless, I still love it for its shape and volume, and of course, you know me with my love of big curly (yes, even frizzy hair).
The hair was done by Keith Carpenter for an issue of the Marie Claire Magazine. Thanks Keith for your creativity.
This look can be achieved either by combing/picking out naturally curly hair to achieve the height and width, or the hair can be set first either on very small rollers or pipe cleaners, and then picked out or combed out for the required look.

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My Pick ~ Messy Do

Sometimes for me, I fall in love with just the ‘look’ of a hairstyle, it doesn’t necessarily have to be a precise haircut or anything too defined. One of my favorite things, especially on myself is ‘messy’ unstructured undo’s. I know this picture is abit hazy but I hope it will show you an idea of what I mean…


My Pick 10
See how the texture is so messy, like she’s been out blowing in the wind all day, and then one side is just dragged up to create a different shape! Great Look!
If your lucky enough to have texture in your hair then this look will happen naturally and easily but if not, time is spent just to get this very natural undone hairdo!
I will continue to hunt down more messy up do’s to show you.

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Hair Question…

QUESTION – by Helen:

How on earth can I get some lift in my roots without having to dry it upside down? I have tried doing that and it just foes abit too wild and messy. Help?


ANSWER – by JuJu

Yes, drying your hair upside down will definitely cause the hair to become messy and also tangled, and if this isn’t the look your going for, the best way to get root lift is by lifting sections of your hair and using the hair dryer to blow underneath each section, drag and dry the roots going the opposite way to the way it normally lays, then do the same with the other side as well as with the back, where you would drag the hair up and forward. If you continue to do this method of lifting until the hair is almost dry, you wont need to use the brush to get root lift either, which can be abit messy too as the hair can tangle easy at the roots. Hope this helps.

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Jin Bang from Prive at Dekko Salon

Every now and again we at Dekko are lucky enough to get some outside teachers sent our way to give us inspiration and show us some new techniques.
Jin Bang, Artistic Educator from Prive Salon (LA & NY) came over to give us a demo on 2 models. The stylists had requested he show us a long layered haircut (always useful on our clients) on one model and the other model, a creative look.

Here’s Jin working on Kayleigh with his creative techniques. He showed a variation of how to remove bulk from the hair and adding lots of texture to it.

Before and after pictures of Sharon, His long layered haircut (the Kim K. as Jin would call it)(as in Kim Kardashian)! Starting with the base line to get the desired length, then he went to the front area and carved out a ‘C’ curve into the side areas. Lastly, the layers were picked straight up from the head and angled from short to long then blowdried using a round brush to create the body.

And here is before and after pictures of Kayleigh again, Jin’s creative haircut as seen in the above pictures. Jin started working from the inside out, starting with the internal layers and taking lots of bulk out with his new techniques before cutting the length off (using a back-cutting technique). He then went into the front area and sliced the front off, then returning to the sides, he connected the back length to the sides, keeping the sides longer. he continued to remove bulk throughout the layers through the top area too. Once the blow dry was completed, Jin returned into the whole haircut and refined any unwanted long areas of hair.

Both models looked great and we were very inspired by Jin, Thank You so much for ‘popping’ over and showing us a thing or two!

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Dekko’s Daily Grind – Cathy

I wanted to feature some work from one of our other stylists from Dekko Salon. Joni Shibata Philips has been with the company since it started and here she is with Cathy, about to do quite a drastic change.

Cathy came in with long thick hair and wanted to donate her hair to Pantene’s Beautiful Lengths, I wrote an earlier post on Donating Hair and if you want to re-cap follow this link: https://jujuchan.com/2009/03/hair-donations.html

Most companies are quite strict and need at least 10 inches before they will accept the hair, but at least this one does accept colored hair, whereas some of the other companies needs the hair to be in its ‘virgin’ state. Cathy being the ideal candidate anyway, came in to see Joni and I couldn’t resist documenting the change for you.

Here’s Cathy during the ponytail cutting section:

Joni cut the hair just below the shoulder and because the hair is so heavy and thick, she proceeded to layer it through and took LOTS of weight out of it to ensure that the hair is able to move and that it will be easy to keep. The hair was then blow-dried and a pomade was rubbed into the ends to give it a chunkier finish to the layers. Here’s Cathy looking very fresh with her newly shorn locks.

Thanks Cathy for posing for the photos : )
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Difference in Straightener’s…

OK, so whats the difference between the Japanese Straight Perm and the Brazilian Straightener ?(Note: not to be confused with the Brazilian Blowouts) Alot of people have been wondering, so here are the most basic points for consideration…

  • Japanese is permanent and will grow out, Brazilian last about 3-4 months and reverts back slowly.
  • Japanese result is poker-straight and flat, Brazilian’s can keep waves and body in the hair.
  • Japanese gets the best results done on healthier hair and is not advisable for light blonde hair, Brazilian can be done on damaged porous hair, even ultra light blondes.
  • Japanese is more expensive because it usually takes longer, between 4 and 6 hours, whereas the Brazilian can be done in 2 to 3hours.
  • You will see a re-growth with the Japanese because the structure will have been changed, whereas the Brazilian will slowly revert back to its normal texture and there is no permanent change.
  • Japanese will allow any type of shampoo to be used with it once done, although a special conditioner is recommended, the Brazilian needs sulphate free shampoos to make the treatment last longer, any salt (ocean water) will reduce the life of the treatment.
  • When freshly done, both the Japanese and the Brazilian advises you not to tie your hair up or tuck it behind your ears for 48 hours.


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Suitability – Features and Body Shapes

Continuing from my post about face shapes I wanted to talk a little more about suitability in facial features and body shapes – 2 other important considerations to take into account when deciding on hairstyles.



Strong Facial Features:
Below are just a few ‘more extreme’ samples of how important features are when choosing hairstyles, the more experience the stylist is the more they can automatically access facial features as soon as they see the client.
(just in case you cant see the text very well, here they are again.)

  • Long fringes can accentuate a bigger nose.
  • A ‘Nefertiti’ style would accentuate a long chin.
  • A short style, particularly around the ears, will bring them out more.
  • A style with horizontal lines will not do justice for someone with a wide neck or double chins.
  • A short fringe will accentuate a protruding forehead.
  • A flat face is made flatter if the style is worked straight up from the hairline.
suitability



Height and Body Shapes:
These also make a difference to your choice of hairstyles. It is important for the stylist to see the client before she sits down so that you can take note of her body proportion.
If a tall, thin person had a hairstyle which is very short and close to the head, or very long hair that is straight and flat, then the body length will be accentuated more, whereas if the style had more width, the stream-line would be broken giving an overall better body proportion.

body shapes 1

On the other hand, if a person is small but in proportion, then anything that is not TOO wide would be suitable, but if the person was small, and wide in shape, then the situation would be different. To add a hairstyle with width would be adding width to the overall look, but if the style was very short and flat, this would also accentuate the roundness of the body. It is not always easy to reach a happy medium, especially if the client has a certain style in mind. The stylists job is to suggest styles which complement her all round. If the correct approach is used, most clients are willing to accept your ideas and styles, as long as you have a reason to back up your suggestions.

body shapes 2

Again, I am using extreme examples to show my points easier, it does not mean that all persons belong in any one category of body shape or that you cannot go against type but in general, we must remember to evaluate the body along with the face shape and features when choosing styles.